Des Moines, Iowa

If you travel often, the perks can make the road a little easier to take. I’m Platinum Elite at Marriott properties. That means room upgrades, access to the concierge lounge if available, and more points. The conference I’m attending had a Marriott Renaissance as a recommended hotel. I booked in for 4 nights at the Renaissance Des Moines Savery Hotel http://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/dsmbr-renaissance-des-moines-savery-hotel/#close. This is a converted hotel and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. I actually look forward to staying in places such as this rather than a cookie-cutter hotel room that looks the same in Boston as it does in San Francisco. But, this means you need to be prepared for the quirks of an old building. There may be older fixtures and accessories. Embrace the differences rather than finding the flaws.

Upon my arrival late Sunday night, I was warmly greeted by the hotel staff, provided a room upgrade to a larger room on the top floor down the hall from the concierge lounge. The concierge lounge provides access to free beverages and snacks, free morning breakfast and free evening appetizers. I was comped the 2 Gatorade’s I grabbed from the drink cabinet at check-in, as the concierge lounge closed 5 minutes before my arrival, and I got to “spin the wheel” and received an extra 750 Marriot points. Why are points important? Not only do your yearly points determine your status for the next year but you redeem points for free hotel stays. For instance, my wife and I have to drop our daughter off at Boston’s Logan airport next week so she can travel to Paris for thesis research. After we drop her off and get done crying, we are heading in to the city to spend the night at a Marriott Vacation Club property, Pulse at Custom House, right in downtown Boston https://www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/bosch-marriott-vacation-club-pulse-at-custom-house-boston/ using points. I’ll only pay to park the car. Running in Boston Gardens is on the menu but we’ll save that for another blog.

Monday I visited the concierge lounge for breakfast which for me was steel-cut oatmeal with a tablespoon of granola and a plate of fresh fruit, heavy on the blackberries. The berries boost your immune system and can help stave off a number of disease conditions. This was my go-to breakfast for the rest of the week, with a Vega shake thrown in for variety (I bring my own shaker on the road).

Monday night I visited Zombie Burger(http://zombieburgerdm.com/)  located just across the river in downtown Des Moines on the recommendation of a few Iowans . You can choose your own patty and they have 2 vegetarian options; Nibog Veggie Nut Patty and a Grilled Portobello. I had the Nibog patty which was fine, but often when I’m getting a veggie burger or veggie hot dog, it’s all about the toppings. Fries can be important, and I approve of the fries at Zombie Burger. They were crisp and hot. I went with the 28 Days Later burger, with blue cheese, caramelized onion, lettuce, tomato, fresh white onion, mayo (I’m not 100% vegan yet, try not to judge). I liked the burger and the bun. They also have gourmet shakes but I had just run 5 miles and I couldn’t bring myself to add the calories.

Tuesday night I was dragged along by my co-workers to El Bait Shop (http://elbaitshop.com/ ), which is near the Iowa Cubs ballpark and boasts the world’s largest selection of American craft beers, with over 185 on tap. The beer menu is pages long and while it is all lost on me (I no longer drink alcohol) two of my co-workers order up. There’s a fun atmosphere to the place, which I guess should be no surprise with all that beer flowing. We ordered Guac and Chips and the Hot Pepper Cheese sticks which were not bad. I like my guacamole with chunks of avocado in it, theirs was smooth, and so I can’t be sure it was freshly made onsite. There are a few vegetarian items on the menu but only one entrée, so I didn’t have to struggle to make a decision, Vegetarian Burrito it is. It was filling but nothing special. However, if you are not a vegetarian and you like a craft beer, the menu is varied and it’s conveniently located near the ballpark and the downtown area.

Wednesday night was a much better experience for a vegetarian. A colleague and I met up with 2 customers at Eatery/A  (http://www.eateryadsm.com/) located in the Woodland Heights neighborhood. I passed through the neighborhood earlier in the day while on a run and had noticed a number of trendy looking restaurants. This neighborhood is about 2 miles from the Renaissance – Hotel Savory. I had looked at the menu on my phone and knew I’d have more to choose from. The restaurant is on Ingersoll and has patio seating but we chose to stay inside and dine at the bar. My colleague was born in India but spent a lot of time in Egypt and enjoys the cuisine and we were able to quickly agree on appetizers of Hummus and Fiery Baba Ghanoush. Both exceeded my expectations. For my main course, I went with the Cauliflower & Chickpea Falafel, which comes with flatbread, hummus, pickled veggies and raita (picture below). This was really, really good and I left nothing on my plate. A few Apple Beignets and an espresso ended the evening. This was more food than I usually eat in two days, never mind one meal, but it tasted so good and the company and atmosphere lent itself to enjoying a great meal. Take a look at their website for pictures on the interior and exterior but let me say that the service as top-notch and I will definitely return to Eatery/A on my next visit.

My last day in Des Moines has me on a 6:40 pm flight. Thunderstorms and tornado warnings have plagued the area the last few days. I put my chances of getting home tonight at 50/50 but I’m determined to make the most of the day. Another perk of my Marriott Platinum status is late check-out. Yes, anyone can ask for a late check-out but it is always at the discretion of the hotel. Being platinum, I’ve never been turned down. When I call down and ask, the very cheery clerk says something to the effect of “Oh, I have to take care of my platinum guests, how about x:00 pm”. This is fantastic as it means I can get over to the last ½ day of the conference and then come back and change into casual clothes for the long trip back east. My fellow travelers who’ve had to change in an airport bathroom stall know what I’m talking about.

For my last meal in Des Moines, I turn to the internet and search for vegan/vegetarian restaurants and spot a hip looking place about a mile down the road from me called Ritual Café (http://www.ritualcafedsmiowa.net/#about) and see they have an all vegetarian menu, (Hemp-nut Smoothies?!?!) albeit a small one. I head down Locust and when I get to 1301 Locust, there is no Ritual Café, just an entrance to an apartment building and a restaurant called Proof that isn’t open yet. This isn’t the first time I’ve found a restaurant on the interwebs only to find it shut down when I get there. You’d think I’d have learned to make a simple phone call first, but I haven’t. 

Bummed out, I head back down Locust towards my hotel, figuring I’ll stop somewhere along the way. I stop at Centro (http://www.centrodesmoines.com/) and ask to see the menu. I spot a few likely lunch items and take a seat in the bar area. I really want to try the Fried Brussel Sprouts but the price tells me it’s a large portion. George’s Veggie Burger (wood-grilled veggie burger, pepper jack cheese, roasted corn relish, avocado, lettuce, tomato, red onion and chipotle dressing on a toasted ciabatta bun) catches my eye, but how many veggie burgers can one man eat in a lifetime? I order the small portion of Portobello Fries and a ½ portion of the Tofu Gnocchi (sautéed mushroom, red onion, tomato, spinach, garlic, basil, shallots, olive oil). While I’m waiting for my food, I go back online to see if I can find out when Ritual Café shut down. Maybe they moved. I look at the reviews on a few sites to see if I can find a timeline and notice some recent posts, some with pictures, and the Google information that appears first on the phone which shows map location, contact info, and hours open shows “open today”. I start to think I somehow missed it. Is it on a higher floor? I’ve already placed my order at Centro so decide to head back after I eat, find out where I went wrong and maybe grab a coffee. Again, my eyes are bigger than my stomach, but I’m not regretting my choices. The gnocchi and Portobello fries are excellent and the service is great.

After lunch, I step out into the heat and head back up Locust for another try. This time, as I’m coming up to the intersection of Locust and 13^th ST, I notice the building extends up 13^TH, and there it is, Ritual Café ( http://www.ritualcafedsmiowa.net/#about). I’m not the smartest guy on the planet, but am I the only one to have missed this address the first time around? To me, it is clearly on 13^th ST, not Locust, but what do I know about city living, I live in a town of 5,000 people. If I had done my homework ahead of time, not only would I have gotten the location correct, but I would have ended up here for coffee every morning of my visit. It’s my kind of place, with the smell of fresh-brewed coffee and the place decorated with local artists’ work. It has a small but all-vegetarian menu, with vegan items as well, but I am really full from lunch. This doesn’t stop me from eating a pumpkin muffin with my espresso, though. I’m sure to return on my next visit.

As I’m set to leave the city, I realize Des Moines has a lot to offer, with different neighborhoods with distinct vibes. There is a lot of building going on downtown, with new condos all over.  I’m told by the locals that the real estate market is hot, with new condos going up downtown and lean listings. Now, if they could just do something about the winters.